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Post by jbguitar on Oct 10, 2019 14:38:49 GMT
I just got a Harley Benton CST24 and really like it. However, I would like to adjust the height of the strings a bit to lower it. I notice the bridge has 2 screws on either size and an allen screw in the middle. I assume that the screws adjust the bridge height and thus the action but I wanted to ask if anyone has done this before and make sure I am right.
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Post by LeoThunder on Oct 10, 2019 18:01:50 GMT
Yes, they're for the bridge height. You'll have to loosen the strings first or they won't turn because of the tension. After you've lowered the bridge, you'll have to adjust intonation accordingly: You do this with two small screws on the back of the bridge then finish off with the one in the middle for the B and G strings.
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Post by jbguitar on Oct 11, 2019 21:36:27 GMT
I'm not sure I understand what the two small screws on the back of the bridge and the one in the middle actually do?
Also, how do I adjust the intonation on this guitar?
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Post by jbguitar on Oct 11, 2019 22:19:19 GMT
Can you explain how to use the screws to adjust the intonation?
Thanks
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Post by LeoThunder on Oct 12, 2019 1:20:49 GMT
The back screws adjust the length of the E strings. If action is set low, the bridge needs to go quite a long way on the bass side so better loosen all strings while doing it. The middle screw loosens a separate part that can be moved to adjust the length of the B and G strings. These two strings need to be loosened when doing this or tension will just pull that part towards the nut. Mine looks like this with the original D'Addario 10s and 1.25 to 1.45 mm action at 12th fret:
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DefJef
THBC Moderator
Due to musical differences I've decided I can't work with myself any more.
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Post by DefJef on Oct 12, 2019 9:37:00 GMT
I don't know how experienced you are in adjusting intonation on a guitar jbguitar . Are you asking how to intonate any guitar or how to intonate this one? I'm assuming you know how to intonate other guitars but this one's defeating you? If that's the case then I would simply do as LeoThunder says, use the two little screws that press on to the posts to get the top and bottom E's to be intonated correctly (E at the 12th fret should be neither sharp nor flat when an open E is in tune). You can then forget the A and D because you have no control over them. Sometimes you may need to fudge it out to a happy average on these strings. Then you have the shared G and B section that you simply loosen off with an Allen key and push about till you're happy that these two strings are also in tune at the 12th fret when they are in tune when played open. That's it. In a nutshell. Perhaps LeoThunder has a few tips about getting that little section to move in gentle degrees rather than suddenly sliding too far? Do you poke it with your finger Leo? Doesn't strike me as the sort of design that your namesake at Fender would have been happy with, even if he did settle for three barrels on a Tele.
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Post by LeoThunder on Oct 12, 2019 9:59:20 GMT
Perhaps LeoThunder has a few tips about getting that little section to move in gentle degrees rather than suddenly sliding too far? Do you poke it with your finger Leo? Doesn't strike me as the sort of design that your namesake at Fender would have been happy with, even if he did settle for three barrels on a Tele. Same tip as with those cheap, simple bass saddles I've had on the BZ and a few others: loosen both strings so they don't pull, move the part a little, tighten, tune up, check and repeat the whole chore until it's good. This is not an efficient system. The bass saddles left me no choice since the screw is underneath the string itself
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Post by jbguitar on Oct 12, 2019 18:37:36 GMT
So I loosen the screws and then move the saddle back/forth till it's in tune on the 12th?
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Post by LeoThunder on Oct 13, 2019 1:49:11 GMT
Yes to all the above, with a complement: strings need to be loosened to enable the bridge to move up or down, because they directly pull on it, the bridge functioning as a tail piece. Then they have to be tuned up again, all of them to pitch, to check for buzzing because they pull on the neck affecting its relief and their amplitude of vibration depends on tension too. It's a major hassle and the chance of breaking the high E is significant unless it is tuned up carefully. Strings don't like to be tuned up too fast. When doing intonation, better loosen the strings, at least the high ones, before pulling the bridge backwards (away from the nut), to avoid over tightening. Second hassle. Then when it comes to the moving saddle, B and G strings also need to be loose for its adjustment and up to pitch for checking. Third hassle. This is a fun bridge
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Post by LeoThunder on Oct 13, 2019 11:21:45 GMT
I remember you having trouble with a bridge before LeoThunder and needing to loosen some strings. If I remember correctly this was to raise or lower a bridge? I never seem to need to do it to intonate a guitar though. Yes, it was this very bridge, to the point I believe it is one reason this guitar ended up as a deko item. It came with 2.3 mm action at 12th fret so when I took it down, the bridge had to travel quite a way, although this was limited on the treble side. Still, I have broken E strings simply by tuning them up a little fast. There is no need to take them too sharp, it always happened before they got to pitch. They don't always withstand the stress so better reduce it by going flat first and tune up slowly after adjusting.
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