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Post by kodiakblair on May 21, 2017 11:02:43 GMT
DefJefEver see a neck shim raise action !! You don't think he means end of the heel do you ? That'll cause even more trouble.
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8 posts
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Post by nuwisha on May 22, 2017 3:16:17 GMT
My logic (maybe wrong?), the low E is solved by either thicker stings in standard tuning or thiner strings in higher tunning. This to me indicates problem (lack of) in tension with 84 string. Logic behind shim (Maybe called reverse shim? Get neck to tilt back more. Sorry english not first language), efectivly you're lengthing the lower e, which causes slightly more tension in the string thus solving problem. At least thats what luthier did to friends fender bass vi with standard set strings, and it solved it (couldn't get good action feeling by just adjusting truss rod action).
I just put on larger and smaller string set depending on how I'm going to use it. Easier to do xd.
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DefJef
THBC Moderator
Due to musical differences I've decided I can't work with myself any more.
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Post by DefJef on May 22, 2017 6:46:43 GMT
My logic (maybe wrong?), the low E is solved by either thicker stings in standard tuning or thiner strings in higher tunning. This to me indicates problem (lack of) in tension with 84 string. Logic behind shim (Maybe called reverse shim? Get neck to tilt back more. Sorry english not first language), efectivly you're lengthing the lower e, which causes slightly more tension in the string thus solving problem. At least thats what luthier did to friends fender bass vi with standard set strings, and it solved it (couldn't get good action feeling by just adjusting truss rod action). I just put on larger and smaller string set depending on how I'm going to use it. Easier to do xd. Hi nuwisha. What you are describing is just a normal shim not a 'reverse shim'. I can see your logic that a shim will slightly add some tension and slightly lengthen the string if there are intonation problems but I'd rather be doing that with the saddles. I also worry that the action will get very low so you will need to raise the bridge very high, possibly making right hand playing less comfortable.
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Post by kodiakblair on May 22, 2017 9:48:01 GMT
Buzz is a genius. Adds a reverse shim,finds it throws the low notes out so sells a compensated nut to rectify his shim. " Snake oil. Get your Snake Oil here folks."
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DefJef
THBC Moderator
Due to musical differences I've decided I can't work with myself any more.
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Post by DefJef on May 22, 2017 9:50:50 GMT
DefJef Ever see a neck shim raise action !! You don't think he means end of the heel do you ? That'll cause even more trouble. Funnily enough I suppose you could shim the end of the heel to lengthen the strings if the saddles have no more travel. I've never heard of it being done though but I am interested in the solution. My brain is churning over what on earth else it might do but I think it would raise the action slightly too wouldn't it? Or does that depend on whether the pocket is perfectly horizontal or has a slight up or down bias? What a can of worms you have released kodiakblair.
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DefJef
THBC Moderator
Due to musical differences I've decided I can't work with myself any more.
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Post by DefJef on May 22, 2017 10:03:43 GMT
Buzz is a genius. Adds a reverse shim,finds it throws the low notes out so sells a compensated nut to rectify his shim. " Snake oil. Get your Snake Oil here folks." It does all sound like guff doesn't it? Old Buzz surmises that it creates a little acoustic chamber in the neck pocket but that sounds even more ludicrous. So I had a think about how on earth this could increase anything audible at all and it struck me that a reverse shim would help to jam the top of the heel of the neck tighter against the body through leverage, very tight if it was already well fitted, and making a contact where there was none before in a badly fitting neck pocket. If this increases sustain or amplifies lower frequencies I suppose it could work acoustically. Again, whether this would be transferred into the pickups is anyone's guess, like any of these acoustic improvements. I have a Frankencaster with parts from god-knows-where. I am very aware that it lacks acoustic sustain but have never particularly cared about or noticed a lack of plugged in sustain. I am going to try this and see what happens.
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Post by kodiakblair on May 22, 2017 12:23:45 GMT
DefJefPlacing a spacer at the heel end does open a can of worms when it comes to intonation so definitely not recommended
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Post by JAC on May 22, 2017 12:43:10 GMT
I'm with KB on this, I have never heard of a neck shim improving the tension, unless you shim it with a log or something. But then again, I lead a sheltered life For the intonation, if it is an issue across all strings, and the adjustment isn't quite long enough, my suggestion would be to move the bridge (the part that intonates) slightly. However, this would only be if it happens on all strings and with the string setups that you usually use. If you only have this issue with a certain type/brand of strings, then I would suggest other strings first to find the ones you like and then worry about the need for a little more adjustment on strings.
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DefJef
THBC Moderator
Due to musical differences I've decided I can't work with myself any more.
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Post by DefJef on May 22, 2017 13:02:10 GMT
DefJef Placing a spacer at the heel end does open a can of worms when it comes to intonation so definitely not recommended It does but at first thought feels about the same as moving the bridge back a shade. In other words both methods move the nut a bit further from the saddles.
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Post by JAC on May 22, 2017 14:23:25 GMT
DefJef Placing a spacer at the heel end does open a can of worms when it comes to intonation so definitely not recommended It does but at first thought feels about the same as moving the bridge back a shade. In other words both methods move the nut a bit further from the saddles. I can see the logic in that, I would have just thought that it is much easier to move the bridge than shim the neck, but I guess that depends on the instrument and who is doing it. Or, you could remove all the frets and relocate them
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Post by JAC on May 22, 2017 17:39:04 GMT
...or go fretless. Instant intonation. BOOM. You obviously haven't heard me on fretless
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9 posts
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Post by heymrbassman on May 22, 2017 22:59:35 GMT
Many thanks, Nuwisha. I will try the Ernie Balls and look into the Kaliums. A chap on the Bass VI Players Facebook page recommended them.
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9 posts
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Post by heymrbassman on May 23, 2017 2:02:55 GMT
Hello, Kodiakblair. The low E seems to be slightly sharp. My ear's not the best but when I put the tuner on, the fretted notes are uniformly sharp. Now, the tuner is a cheap one but I get the same result with the iRig and AmpliTube app I have. The other strings seem fine. I think I will get my local shop to look at it - I don't trust myself - and the advice I've got here and via other forums - I recently joined the Bass VI Players Facebook page - is to try heavier strings. Some with Squiers have replaced the bridge with (I think) a Staytrem but my understanding is that's a Fender-like setup rather than the Tune O Matic. Thanks for your advice.
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