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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2019 12:27:19 GMT
Would also love to know more on this subject! +1 buuuut ,. ... nothing wrong with some fret noise when you hammer the string as it adds to the Analogness of it all related to tone!
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Post by DerAlex on Jan 18, 2019 14:15:45 GMT
My bass teacher said trying out flats would be a good option. He also recommended using 45-100 (on a 4-string bass) and not going heavier. There is also an extensive test of flatwounds (unfortunately in german) but this guy noted down every detail and seems not to be so inspired by hard 'n' stiff" strings: www.bonedo.de/artikel/einzelansicht/vergleichstest-flatwound-saiten-fuer-e-bass/2.htmlMaybe auto-translation in Chrome helps a bit.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2019 15:27:56 GMT
Maybe you need a higher action I try to play gently as that is my prefered tone, even if I need more punch I will try to mute strings with my fretting hand or crank the Compressor and then its much easier to get punch WITHOUT going hard on the strings (up the Attack knob). But yes I too get rattle if I really dig into the strings. My action is around 2,8 mm on E and maybe a bit lower on G.
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Post by JAC on Jan 26, 2019 13:35:54 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jan 26, 2019 14:49:21 GMT
"There is no shame in going back to basics" !
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2022 22:54:12 GMT
Flamed out thread but as a new bass owner and bass beginner/wannabe player, thought it worth a relite.
Interestingly my 2021 manufactured Yamaha TRBX174 bought new last month (03/22) which is Yamaha's entry level 4 string bass came fitted default with .45-.105s. That's also spec. fitment stated on their website. No brand specified on the 174 and 204 series. D'Addario on all TRBX segments above i.e. 304/504 etc according to their current (2022) website specs. Typically Yamaha use Korean sourced OEM components when not specifying a brand. Unsure what their relationship is with Chinese manufacturers, who make a superb quality strings in their mid and upper brand segments IME of those I've tried and used on guitar. e.g. Alice, Orphee brands -but just two of many. Cost/quality/effectiveness, they leave well known overpriced American brands for dead with no discernible tonal, feel or service life tradeoff that matters to me. But I digress.
Those default unknown brand OEM fitment .45-.105s are my first exposure to bass strings, so I have no datum comparative.
As is my "be prepared" maxim nature, the first thing I did the same day I ordered my bass was to order a spare set of strings so as not to be held to ransom paying an exorbitant amount for ridiculously priced Ernie Balls, D'Addarios or Elixirs off the shelf were replacement string/s to be needed ad hoc. The long and the short of it, on a rapid voyage of gauge options and end user preferences discovery, I ended up buying a set of well regarded .45-.100 Nickel Roundwounds.
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strummer
Harley Benton Club Junior Member
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Post by strummer on Apr 7, 2022 19:40:37 GMT
I've had my bass for many years and haven't had to change the strings yet, though I realize it might be necessary someday ...
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Post by Deleted on Apr 18, 2022 21:25:19 GMT
I've had my bass for many years and haven't had to change the strings yet, though I realize it might be necessary someday ... Fair enough. IDK yet about uncoated (wound) bass strings lifespan in terms of A. acceptable tonal fidelity due fatigue and the gradual loss of elastic properties, and B. feel due inevitable exposure to contact with reactive substances in play and everyday rack/stand/hanger storage inducing corrosion. Breakages will be rare if ever on a conventionally strung standard gauge 4 string I expect given bass strings are, (i) wound and, (ii) of such relatively large robust gauge suggestive they'll wear out per definitions A & B referred to in the preceding sentence long before risk of a breakage ever occurring even on a G. I'll certainly find how long that metaphorical 'piece of string' is quantitatively in time. I expect for reasons iterated, thankfully given the relative cost per set their lifespan will be longer than that I experience of a typical set of .9s or .10s (electric) or .12's (acoustic) guitar strings. I do truly know someone who is content to play guitar (not bass) with the same original sets of towing cables strings he bought his guitars with still fitted having owned them for several years. The mindset is one of 'the only time it's necessary to change strings is if/when one breaks'. I'm always amazed at how he perceives strings sound acceptable near half a decade or more on when my E, B (& G on electric) are black, corroded, feel utterly dreadful to fret, are tonally dull with the wound G on acoustic discernibly the latter too within 3~4 months on acoustic, generally less on electric. Mindful of avoiding invitation to argument, an unspoken policy of each to their own has prevailed between us, although his preferred practice doesn't work for me.
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