8 posts
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Post by limbop on Dec 18, 2017 14:13:36 GMT
Hi Folks, Does any one know with certainty the type of clear coat that is used on a CST-24T? I've had mine for a little more than a week and I hate the dye job they did on the maple flame. Since I build and finish custom furniture, I would like to strip it and start over. The guitar plays really well, so I don't want to ship it back. This kind of thing is right in my wheelhouse, but it would save some experimentation to know up front if I'm dealing with lacquer, polyurethane, or polyester. Thanks for any help!
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3,968 posts
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Post by salteedog on Dec 18, 2017 16:53:44 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Dec 18, 2017 17:19:14 GMT
I think that flame maple is only 1mm thick! Take care not to sand through it!
Can't help with the lacquer thickness though !
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8 posts
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Post by limbop on Dec 18, 2017 21:36:24 GMT
At this point, the top is not AAA maple by any stretch. It is junk. Poorly sanded and dyed like crap. If I go through the veneer, no big whoop! I will just put a great paint finish and be done.
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1,773 posts
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Post by MartinB on Dec 18, 2017 22:45:34 GMT
I think I'd prefer that, limbop. If you do it I'd love to see a pic. I'm no fan of guitars that look like furniture. Hehe, what do you think of my Tele and Casino? I have a soft spot for the natural guitar look.
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Post by intenselycalm on Dec 19, 2017 1:32:26 GMT
I can't say what the finish (clear) is on the CST-24T, but on the TE-20 and SC450+VB, it is some sort of Urethane, definitely not lacquer. Can't say it isn't a polyester, and I wouldn't be surprised if it is a high-build clear. That would speed up production. The veneer is very thin as CheDaPapa states, probably 1mm, or less. There may also be a clear sealer/leveler on under the final topcoat clear. my SC400 SGT had a very thick milky-clear sealer coat under the paint.
I would expect the bulk of the Harley Benton's to be finished with similar products, but I also believe they are not all from the same mfg plant. So, materials could vary model to model, plant to plant.
If you don't like the finish that came on it - it's your canvas, paint it! Sounds like that's your gig! As DefJef says "...love to see a pic", before and after!
I'm reading up on some UV cure clear coats now. Interesting stuff!
Good luck with the guitar, have fun!
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DefJef
THBC Moderator
Due to musical differences I've decided I can't work with myself any more.
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Post by DefJef on Dec 19, 2017 9:08:49 GMT
I think I'd prefer that, limbop . If you do it I'd love to see a pic. I'm no fan of guitars that look like furniture. Hehe, what do you think of my Tele and Casino? I have a soft spot for the natural guitar look. I'm happy enough with a sort of bare wood look. I'm very inconsistent that way. And I even chose my Pacifica because it looked ugly, like a slab of 70s wardrobe, it seemed honest somehow. It's high gloss figured woods and bursts that put me off and I have no explanation for it. It all seems like too much makeup to me. I'm a plain guy.
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3,968 posts
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Post by salteedog on Dec 19, 2017 11:03:25 GMT
In general I'm nervous of buying a guitar for its looks and avoid 'bling'. E.g. I bought a black L-400 'cos I didn't much fancy the Goldtop.
I always thought that Bruce's Tele/Esquire as on the cover of 'Born to Run' looked super-cool.
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1,110 posts
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Post by dodger on Dec 19, 2017 11:19:21 GMT
Speaking of finishes - I've asked this before: Anyone get an allergic reaction from HB guitars? I get a rash on my forearm if I play for more than am hour (which of course I do every weekend sometimes for 5 hours if I have 2 gigs in one night). I applied some barrier cream that worked for a while but was a bit messy so I've started wearing long sleeves which obviously isn't ideal playing under lights or in packed bars. Anyone think it would be worth sanding the part of the finish that my arm comes in contact with? I have the CLD41 and CLA28V and both have the same wood contruction and matte finish. Of course it could be just a heat rash but it only happens when I play guitar.
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