703 posts
|
Post by gullum on Jun 23, 2015 12:45:38 GMT
Has anyone of you used roller bridge and headnut ? and what are your opinions on using them?
|
|
211 posts
|
Post by riemersma on Jun 29, 2015 18:06:46 GMT
Has anyone of you used roller bridge and headnut ? and what are your opinions on using them? You probably want one. So you probably want to know how useful it is. Depends on what you will be using it for I think. If you use a Bigsby vibrato bar, a roller bridge is an absolute must. If you plan on using it with a stopbar, it's your choice. If you want to prevent string breakage, you should look at a Gotoh bridge with GraphTec saddles. GraphTec has lower friction and no sharp edges that can cut the strings. It also adds something to the sound, but this is for personal preference. A roller bridge however feels nicer when palm muting (IMO) they can increase tuning stability. Also there are some people that say it gives longer string life and better intonation. But I dont really know this for sure. So basically: you can use a roller bridge, or a bridge with GraphTec saddles. And I have no idea what you mean by headnut
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 29, 2015 18:37:34 GMT
Nut on the head stock I assume; bone nut, graphite nut, etc ... nut
|
|
703 posts
|
Post by gullum on Jun 29, 2015 19:11:57 GMT
I had ordered 2 of them and put one in my Yamaha guitar but don't notice any difference at all so I don't think I'll use the other one on my L-450+ and headnut I did mean nut on the head stock there are to kinds that Thomas sells one by fender and the other one needs cutting a part of the first fret that I don't like to do, Maybe get a b stock to test it on
|
|
211 posts
|
Post by riemersma on Jun 30, 2015 7:39:36 GMT
I had ordered 2 of them and put one in my Yamaha guitar but don't notice any difference at all so I don't think I'll use the other one on my L-450+ and headnut I did mean nut on the head stock there are to kinds that Thomas sells one by fender and the other one needs cutting a part of the first fret that I don't like to do, Maybe get a b stock to test it on Yeah I see you have a string-through. With a moving tailpiece (Bigsby etc.) it would have had more use. But you don't notice much when palm muting?
|
|
703 posts
|
Post by gullum on Jun 30, 2015 9:36:39 GMT
it seam to damp less then on my other guitars
|
|
211 posts
|
Post by riemersma on Jun 30, 2015 10:50:44 GMT
it seam to damp less then on my other guitars How do you mean? I'm sorry, but this sentence is not put together very well...
|
|
703 posts
|
Post by gullum on Jun 30, 2015 11:11:47 GMT
it is like you need to place your palm a bit more forward then on a regular tune-o-magic bridge because the strings not on top of the bridge but a bit down, so on a regular one when you please your palm on the bridge you touch the strings but on the roller your hand needs to be more forward to touch the strings. hope that makes some sense
|
|
211 posts
|
Post by riemersma on Jun 30, 2015 11:38:06 GMT
it is like you need to place your palm a bit more forward then on a regular tune-o-magic bridge because the strings not on top of the bridge but a bit down, so on a regular one when you please your palm on the bridge you touch the strings but on the roller your hand needs to be more forward to touch the strings. hope that makes some sense Seems more like it. But yes, I know what you mean. Some people like it better, some don't.
|
|
|
|
Post by bigh on May 10, 2016 17:50:18 GMT
I use roller saddles in my fender strat and also my Yamaha Pacifica, because both have whammy bars but I find it helps tuning accuracy with reduced binding in both cases, the nuts I have yet to do, considering options at the moment.
|
|
3,968 posts
|
Post by salteedog on May 10, 2016 18:03:55 GMT
Nuts and to a lesser extent bridges....may appear to be the least complex pieces of the guitar but I've come to realize that they are where a lot of the magic/black art of guitar set-up lies.
|
|