|
Post by bigblastbeat on Apr 30, 2024 17:03:08 GMT
I am looking to replace the neck on my MR classic. I can find something with a correct scale length but the angle to accommodate the angled neck pickup worries me. Has anybody had any experience replacing a neck on a MR series HB guitar or anything similar such as an Aria or univox hi-flier and what should I be considering when choosing a neck?
|
|
|
Post by kodiakblair on May 6, 2024 3:36:49 GMT
what should I be considering when choosing a neck? How can I put this in the kindest possible way; hand the task over to someone competent. Ordinarily I'd give you a few links for suitable necks and wish you well but your 2nd sentence in good faith prevents me from doing so. The MR-Classic, Classic Baritone and MR Modern all use standard square heel 25.5"/27" scale length guitar necks. There's no slanted heel to accommodate the neck pickup. What the necks do have are fretboard 'overhang'. Those serve no practical purpose, being there solely for cosmetic reasons. It's a rare event that swapping a neck is as simple as remove 4 screws, stick heel in the pocket then put the screws back in. Most times theres a heel to be trimmed and re-shaped so it fits the pocket. The nut needs slots recut or built up or replaced. Frets often need dressed or you may require more heel work, sometimes the thickness needs reduced or shim added. That goes for all neck replacements, even £600 official Fender replacements include the warning in the T's & C's I'm sorry if this comes across as harsh but should you be tackling a neck swap yourself if you've unaware of something basic as an overhang ? Should you decide to go for it. Source a 24 fret 25.5" scale length neck, preferably with no inlay or dots. The heel will end at the 24th fret meaning you must cut the heel back to just after the 22nd fret, leaving the fretboard intact, and reshape it to fit; that allows the guitar to intonate correctly. If you leave it at 24 frets, the balance will be affected and intonation will be out unless you move the bridge; not so easy with a TOM. After test fitting the neck it's time to address the overhang. Frets 23 and 24 get carefully removed, mark the slant angle then cut off excess. Take some clean sandpaper and make a nice pile of dust from the excess fretboard, you'll be needing a mix of dust and glue to fill the partial fret slots.
|
|
|
Post by bigblastbeat on May 8, 2024 13:47:30 GMT
Thanks. I was mostly looking to see what neck I should purchase before I hand it off for somebody to do the work. Good to know I do not have to buy something with the exact overhang.
|
|
|
|
Post by bigblastbeat on May 8, 2024 15:06:13 GMT
Something thinner than what is currently on it. Block inlays if possible. I am less worried about the headstock shape but most likely gibson-esque is what I would be able to find I assume.
This is my first guitar as I have only played bass all my life so I don't really have a specific answer. I've fiddled on other guitars which seem to have an easier to play on neck for me because of the thinness as well as just being more esthetically pleasing so I'm hoping to get something that can meet both of those wants.
|
|
|
Post by kodiakblair on May 8, 2024 17:27:00 GMT
Might be worth taking the neck off yours to get some accurate measurements 21mm at 1st fret tapering to 23mm at the 12th fret. Heel also has a slight taper, 27mm at open end of the pocket/ 28mm at the end. Width is 54mm at start of the heel/ 57mm at the end. I still have mine from the bass conversion.
|
|
|
|
Post by kodiakblair on May 8, 2024 22:33:36 GMT
That's handy kodiakblair . Perhaps you can clear up something else. When I zoomed in on the fretboard on the HB site there appeared to be a thin piece of pale wood laminate between the maple neck and rosewood board. Is that the case? Does it continue under the overhang too? It's no laminate, it's the remains of the neck blank after shaping for heel; it does continue under the overhang
|
|